Armenian-Molokans: From Kars to Los Angeles
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| Latitude |
Longitude |
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| |
Karakala: see Taslica Taslica |
40°46' N 40°46' N |
43°02' E 43°02' E |
One of the
Armenian-Molokan families from Karakala is the Shakarian
family, notably son Demos. They came to America and built a large dairy
farm in Downey CA. Demos published the book The Happiest People on Earth,
and founded the organization FGBMFI, Full
Gospel Business Men's
Fellowship International. "Our History" describes their
move from Kara-Kala.
By Joyce Keosababian-Bivin, an
American-Armenian-Molokan who has been exploring her family
history
for over 10 years. She has visited Armenia several times. The map of
Kars and photos are hers.
According to oral tradition, Karakala was an Armenia
Protestant village — some Molokan Armenians and some regular
Protestants.
My grandfather Zorab and his brother John Keosababian had a
sister named Anna, who was also called Shogho. Anna married a Molokan
named Vasili Artyomovich. Their children were Alex, Katya, Uljasha,
Vasily, Ivan and Manya. After Zorab and John went to America, they
exchanged letters with their father Yacov (Hagop), Anna, Vasili and
Alex, and later, their daughter Manya continued corresponding with her
uncles in America.
Manya married Nikolai Fydorovitch Polunin. They had nine children;
Vasili, Ona, Katya, Grisha, Yasha, Vanya, Ivan, Dunya and Tanya
(Tatsyana). They lived in the Molokan village of Malaia
Vorontsovka which apparently was in the vicinity of Karakala, Dubovka
and other villages where Molokans lived. My great-grandfather Hagop
Keosababian lived in Karakala, Vorontsovka, Dubovka and Chakmak
[renamed:
Çalkavur].
Meanwhile, I made a serious decision to go to Turkey with
Armen Aroyan's Historic Armenia Tour where Armenians, mainly from
America, visit places where their parents and grandparents
lived before they came to America or perished during the massacres. I
have for many years dreamed of visiting Kars and finding Karakala.
Finally my dreams were coming to pass.
After arriving joining the group in Istanbul, very early the next morning we flew from Istanbul to Ankara and boarded another plane for Kars. We landed in Kars around 10 a.m. There it was. Kars, right before my eyes. I stood and looked at the Kars sign at the airport and could not believe I was actually here. Right from the airport, we began our search for Karakala. A couple of years ago when I called my mother's 90-year-old cousin Myrtle to ask about Karakala, she said it didn't exist anymore. It had been filled in. I didn't believe her. I wanted to believe it still existed and that I would be able to visit it someday. We drove through Incesu, formerly Vorontsvoka and visited a family there whose mother was a Russian married to a Turk. Nothing much seems to have changed in the village except there was now electricity and television. Hay wagons are pulled by tractors. It was hard to comprehend that I was standing in the same village where possibly my great grandparents and their family lived.
After Incesu, we drove to Taslica, a primitive Kurdish village
of scattered houses on jagged landscape totally exposed to the
elements. Jamal, our driver, talked to the chief and some of the men
standing around. It was obvious this wasn't Karakala. But apparently
they knew where it had been and one of the men pointed towards the
east, from where we had just arrived. For awhile, I lost hope of
finding our village and Armen said it was all a mystery. However, after
a few miles, Jamal suddenly stopped the van and wanted me to see
something. The area we stopped at was flat, perfect for farming (there
was a potato
patch across the road), but in the background, there were a few hilly
slopes, one with a crater-like formation between the slopes, kind of
like a small gorge maybe. A river ran between the hills and the plain.
Jamal began to show me certain rock formations on the land that
indicated the place was inhabited at one time. We found a whitewashed
stone and one that was part of a door post. I couldn't see the entire
length of the land, but shortly a tractor appeared on the horizon which
could have been a sloped section of a hill.
We returned to the van and Jamal drove off. A couple of miles
down the road, he turned into a village and drove through it out onto
another plain, where there was another hilly area and the same river
flowing
between the same type of hills with very jagged sloping between them.
It was obvious this was the continuation of the first place we visited,
with a modern day road dividing it. Again, there was strong evidence of
the area having been inhabited at one time. Jamal had talked to some of
the
villagers and they all said it had been a military outpost. There was a
10 minute downpour before we arrived at the second site and my shoes
and feet were caked with this black dirt and when the dirt dried, I was
able to collect some of the black dirt and bring it home.
I will confirm that, yes indeed, cousin Myrtle was right. Karakala is
filled in but we found evidence on the land and confirmation by nearby
villagers of its former existence as a military outpost and village.
.
The modern town of Kars is clean and bustling with activity.
There is a modern pedestrian walk with water fountains, shops and
outdoor coffee shops.és. There was a sunflower seed vender
on
the sidewalk with his wagon, selling whole sunflower heads. Kars is
6000 feet high and air was clean and crisp — no smog, no pollution.
Unfortunately, we had only one hour to walk around before traveling to
Ani.
We checked out of our hotel and as we drove down one of the streets, we
passed the old section which is where I really should have visited.
Next time.
Photo
35. Taken
between Taslica and Incesu
(Vorontsovka) in 1999. Supposedly Karakala was filled in and
buried,
but our driver saw evidence this area was inhabited at one time. Notice
the hills in the background.
Photo
38. Photo of Karakala. It seems everyone in our
American-Armenian-Molokan community has a copy of this photo. Notice
the
hills in the background with the gorge in the middle. They don't show
well in photos 35 and 36, but in photo 37, the second site, they're
pretty clear. Even so, none of these places may be the real Karakala
site. [If you look at the hills and "U" shaped gorge in the background,
this shot seems similar to Photo 36.] Click on photos to ENLARGE.
Photo
37. After we left the
first site, our driver cut through a neighboring
village and drove out to this second site which, in his opinion, more
likely
our Karakala. Actually, this could be an extension of the first site
only
now separated by a road. [These may be the hills that cause Molokans in
LA to call their neighborhood, Kara-kala.] [Notice the mountain in
the background are nearly identical to the mountains behind the village
photo taken in the late 1800s.]
The
Armenian-Molokan Church in America was
first located in the Los Angeles "Flats" near the other Molokan village
churches. Like all the immigrant Molokan villages, services were held
in homes at first until a dedicated prayer house was purchased. The
property is now on the Santa
Ana Freeway on the 4th Street south on-ramp.![]() Third location of of the Amrenian- Molokan Church, renamed: First Armenian Pentecostal Church |
![]() First Armenian Pentecostal Church from the air. — Aerial photo from Microsoft TerraServer-USA |
![]() Though the Armenian-Molokans also avoided icons and crosses, they purchased this new building from a Lutheran congregation and decided to leave the decoration "as is". The cross is not part of their service inside. — Photo from: USC Lewis Hall Exhibit March-May 2003: "Sacred Transformation: Armenian Churches in Los Angeles" |
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